Palaces, hanok lanes, and an Insadong tea house

The traditional core of the city, done as a single unhurried loop on foot — royal courtyards, a hillside of preserved houses, and a tea-and-galleries afternoon.

Morning — the grand palace

Start early at the city’s largest royal palace, the first and grandest of the old dynasty. Arrive near opening to have the courtyards and gates to yourself before the tour groups; if the timing lands right, catch the changing-of-the-guard ceremony at the main gate. A nice local touch: rent a hanbok, the traditional dress, from one of the shops nearby — it gets you in free, and everyone wearing one becomes part of the scene rather than a distraction from it. Budget two to three hours to wander.

Midday — Bukchon Hanok Village

A short, gently uphill walk from the palace brings you to a hillside neighbourhood of restored hanok — traditional tile-roofed houses on narrow stone lanes, many now quiet cafes and small galleries, the most photographed of them framing the old roofs against the modern skyline beyond. Go before the midday coaches if you can. One thing worth saying plainly: people still live here. There are signs asking visitors to keep their voices down and not block doorways — it is a real neighbourhood, not a set, and a little courtesy goes a long way.

Afternoon — Insadong

Drift south into Insadong, the old cultural quarter: a pedestrian spine of traditional tea houses, paper and craft shops, and art galleries tucked up side alleys. This is the place for a long tea break — sit down with a pot of something and let the afternoon stretch. It is also good, low-pressure souvenir territory: ceramics, brushwork, hand-made paper.

Evening

You are well placed for an easy first-night dinner. The lanes around here and just east are thick with Korean barbecue — grill-at-the-table, order a couple of cuts, let it be long and relaxed. After a travel day and a lot of walking, that is exactly the right note to end on.